Izakaya Guide (居酒屋)
An izakaya is a Japanese gastropub — a relaxed after-work drinking spot with food. It’s where most of this trip’s dinners will happen. The format is different from Western restaurants; knowing how it works makes the experience better.
What It Is
Casual, noisy, smoke-free in most modern ones, with small shared plates and rounds of drinks. You order throughout the evening rather than placing a full order upfront. No rushing. No turning tables. The vibe is lingering.
Most izakaya have:
- Booths or low tables (sometimes tatami-style with floor seating)
- A long drink menu
- An extensive food menu — typically 40–80 items with photos
- A call button at the table or a custom of calling “Sumimasen!”
The Format — How an Evening Works
1. Seated and given menus You’ll receive the food menu and a drinks menu. Usually pictured, often with English labels in tourist-adjacent areas. In local spots, point at photos or use Google Lens.
2. First order: drinks Order drinks first, almost immediately. This is expected. The table usually comes alive with “nama hitotsu!” (one draft beer) going around. Order soft drinks for anyone not drinking — sofuto dorinku or just ocha (tea).
3. Otoshi arrives Shortly after sitting, a small amuse-bouche (otoshi / お通し) appears automatically. It’s a cover charge in food form — typically ¥300–500/person. This is normal; don’t send it back or ask about it. Just eat it.
4. Order food in rounds Call the server (“Sumimasen!”) or press the call button. Order 3–4 items at a time. Food arrives as it’s ready — not all at once. Keep ordering until full or done.
5. Reorder drinks throughout Each drink is ordered individually. “Nama mou hitotsu” (one more draft) or just hold up the empty glass and make eye contact.
6. The check Say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” or simply say “Okaikei” while miming writing. Most izakaya have you pay at the register on the way out — not at the table. They’ll hand you a receipt slip; take it to the front.
What to Order
Start with (safe, always good)
| Item | Japanese | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Edamame | 枝豆 | Salt-steamed soybeans; the universal first order |
| Karaage | 唐揚げ | Japanese fried chicken; juicy, different from US version |
| Gyoza | 餃子 | Pan-fried dumplings; pork or vegetable |
| Yakitori (assorted) | 焼き鳥盛り合わせ | Grilled chicken skewers; order the mix |
Explore
| Item | Japanese | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yakitori momo | 鶏もも | Chicken thigh, slightly charred |
| Negima | ねぎま | Chicken + leek skewer |
| Tsukune | つくね | Chicken meatball skewer; often served with egg yolk dip |
| Agedashi tofu | 揚げ出し豆腐 | Lightly fried tofu in dashi broth; lighter than it sounds |
| Tamagoyaki | 玉子焼き | Sweet rolled egg; order if available |
| Potato salad | ポテトサラダ | Japanese potato salad is much better than it sounds |
| Tempura (shrimp/veg) | 天ぷら | Lightly battered; good as a shared plate |
| Sashimi platter | 刺身盛り合わせ | Raw fish; order if the place looks seafood-focused |
For Ana (cautious with unfamiliar flavors)
- Karaage — it’s fried chicken; familiar format, excellent Japanese seasoning
- Gyoza — pan-fried dumplings; safe entry point
- Potato salad — genuinely familiar and surprisingly good
- Edamame — safe, snackable
- Yakitori momo — grilled chicken on a stick, lightly seasoned
Drinks
| Drink | Japanese | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Draft beer | 生ビール (nama biiru) | Standard order; most places have Asahi or Sapporo |
| Shochu soda | チューハイ (chuhai) | Light canned/glass cocktail; lemon is popular; low alcohol |
| Highball | ハイボール (haiboru) | Whisky + soda; clean, sessionable |
| Sake (cold) | 冷酒 (reishu) | Cold sake; typically ordered by the small carafe |
| Sake (warm) | 熱燗 (atsukan) | Warm sake; winter/rainy night drink |
| Non-alcoholic | ソフトドリンク (sofuto dorinku) | Oolong tea, juice, Calpis (yogurt drink) always available |
Useful Phrases at the Table
| Situation | Say |
|---|---|
| Getting the server’s attention | すみません！ (Soo-mee-mah-sen) |
| One more of this | もう一つください (Moh hee-toh-tsoo koo-dah-sai) |
| One more beer | 生もう一つ (Nama moh hee-toh-tsoo) |
| The check | お会計お願いします (Oh-kai-keh oh-neh-gai-shee-mah-ss) |
| Delicious! | おいしい！ (Oh-ee-shee!) |
Budget
| Type | Per person |
|---|---|
| Casual neighborhood izakaya | ¥2,500–4,000 |
| Mid-range izakaya (Gion, Ginza area) | ¥4,000–7,000 |
| Upscale / kaiseki-adjacent | ¥8,000+ |
Price includes drinks. Food alone is light — the drinks add up.
No tipping. Ever.
Finding a Good One
- Walk in — the best izakaya are spotted by looking through the door. If it’s full of locals at 7 PM, go in.
- Google Maps “居酒屋” + neighborhood — filter by rating; 3.8+ is solid for an izakaya
- Avoid tourist-district izakaya near major sights — prices spike and quality drops. Walk one block off the main strip.
- Near Osaka House: Tsushima (4.9), Akane (4.8) — see Osaka House for details